Bad Ground on Car Amplifier – Common Causes and Solution

You’ve just got a 5-channel amp installed in your car and now can’t wait to crank up the bass to max.

But upon starting the system, you only get an average-quality bass. And even that is mixed with static noises.

You go through the installation process and find no issue with the wires, amp compatibility, speaker impedance, or fuse.

And now you don’t know what to do.

Believe it or not, this seemingly frustrating problem can be due to a bad amplifier grounding.

​​Like any other electrical component, a car amplifier needs a solid ground connection to perform up to its full potential.

And it’s not just about less bass and whining/popping sounds. Poor grounding can also cause the amp to overheat, clip (that can blow the subwoofer), or go into protect mode.

Here we’ll talk about the causes and symptoms of bad ground connections. Then we’ll discuss how you can properly ground the amp.

Common Causes of Bad Ground Connection

• Poor Ground Location – The main reason why people get a bad ground connection is that they choose the wrong ground location in the first place. You cannot just use any metal surface of your car as a grounding spot.
• Incorrect Wire Gauge – The wire used for making the ground connections is also critical. If its gauge is too small, it’ll limit the amount of current flow, which can weaken the ground connection.
• Corrosion – Even when you choose a good spot for grounding, it can get corrosion or grime over time, making the connection poor.
•  Loose Connection – The same goes for loose connections. Many people don’t care to make the ground connection secure. It makes the ground connection loose and less efficient over time.

Common Symptoms For Bad Car Amp Grounding

Amplifier Clipping

Generally, audio signals are represented as sine waves with curves at the top and bottom. But when a signal is clipped, these sine waves become flat at the top and bottom.

It happens when the amplifier boosts a signal beyond its regular capacity. Even if you have a capable amp, it can underperform and start to clip signals due to bad grounding.

The clipping causes the amp to send DC signals to the subwoofer instead of AC, which puts more stress on the suspension and overheats the voice coil. 

This overheating causes the subwoofers to blow.

Amplifier Overheating

Since the amp becomes underpowered due to bad grounding, it works harder to match the power requirements of your car’s audio system. This extra load causes the amplifier to overheat.

While it’s normal for amps to produce some heat, overheating during normal operations can shorten their lifespan.

Amp Going into Protection Mode

The protect mode is a fail-safe mechanism that shuts down an amp if there’s some malfunctioning or internal failure.

There are many reasons why your amp is going into protect mode, such as faulty head unit/speakers, damaged wiring, and incorrect gain settings. But if you’ve checked for all of these issues and found none, it’s worth checking the amp grounding.

Amp Cutting In and Out

Another symptom of bad grounding is the amplifier, instead of producing continuous sound signals, intermittently stopping and starting.

Static Noises

Even when you get continuous audio signals, bad grounding can introduce different static noises into your sound, such as hissing, crackling, or popping. These sounds will make your music experience unpleasant.

Other Lesser-known Symptoms

Besides these, there are some other less-common issues related to bad groundings, such as:

• The amp restarts multiple times.
•  The speakers produce no sound at all.
•  A burning smell inside your vehicle. This smell can be the result of a dusty amp, too. Therefore, you should always double-check before reaching any conclusion.

How to Properly Ground a Car Amplifier

Generally, you can use any metal closely located to the vehicle’s body for grounding, such as seat belt bolts. You only need to ensure they don’t have rust or grime.

But that’s not a fool-proof method.

So, to be 100% sure, we’ll need a digital multimeter.

Here’s how you can do it:

• Disconnect your negative battery terminal.
• Set the multimeter to resistance mode. And check the resistance between its wires by touching them to each other. It should be 0.2 or 0.3 Ohms.
• Now touch the negative battery terminal with the negative multimeter wire and the grounding spot with the positive multimeter wire. If the reading you get is 0.3 or 0.4, that’s a good grounding spot.

That’s because we’ll also have to consider the earlier reading. We get 0.1 Ohms (0.4 – 0.3 = 0.1) by subtracting the resistance between multimeters’ leads from the resistance of our ground spot. In an ideal scenario, it should be zero, but even 0.1 or 0.2 Ohms would be good enough for real-world environments.

Once you have identified the ideal grounding spot, scrap the paint off its surface.

If for some reason, you cannot find any suitable grounding location, the only option left is to make one by yourself. You can do this by drilling a hole inside the car chassis and connecting the wire with a bolt.

Whatever route you take, ensure the wire connection is tight and stable. That’s because loose connections weaken the grounding even if you choose a perfect spot.

Conclusion

A solid ground connection is necessary for a car amplifier because it’ll complete the ‘loop’ for the current flowing in the amp circuit.

A poorly grounded amp will not only introduce unwanted electrical noises into your sound but also can cause damage to the amp or even your vehicle.

Frequently Asked Questions